The City Break Guide: Prague

It’s been almost 6 years exactly since I first visited Prague, and if you had told me then that I would still be making my twice-yearly trips back then I’m not sure that I would have believed you. Well, there’s a large part of me that would have wanted to believe you but the pesimist (or maybe the realist…?) in me would have been at least a little surprised. Since my first visit I have compiled a few different guides to the city in various places, but given as this is the biggest trip I have done and is likely to be the last (for some years at least) I figured now was the perfect time to update all of my previous guides and share my top places to visit whether you’re here for a weekend or a little longer.

For those of you who are new around these parts (and I’m conscious there are a fair few of you, so hi!) from September 2012 - July this year my boyfriend, Alex, lived and studied in Prague. As a result we were long distance for 6 years and in this time I would make twice-yearly trips to see him, in between him coming back home for holidays. In this time we both got to know the city pretty well, found our favourite places to eat and the spots that we would always stop by whenever I visited. We developed our own little routines for whenever I was in the city and these have formed the basis for most of the recommendations we have made to friends and family over the past 6 years. So now I am sharing them with you, and hopefully they will come in handy if you’re planning a trip to Prague any time soon.

Food

Is any city guide really complete without the best food spots? Eating out when away is one of my favourite things to do but finding the places can sometimes feel a bit of a challenge as there’s so much choice, and Prague is no different. The variety of places to eat has grown in the past few years and now all restaurants are non-smoking the experience is much more pleasant.

For breakfast (the best meal of the day in my opinion) there are plenty of options. Head to Marthy’s for something cute and cosy in their homely restaurant. The pancakes with cinnamon and apple ginger puree are gorgeous as is the passionfruit and honey lemonade - perfect on a warm summer’s day in the city. Globe is the largest English book shop in the city and as you walk through the stacks of books you feel like you’re walking into another world. Super cosy with an extensive menu, the portions are enough to see you right through until lunchtime. The pancakes here are another winner (in particular the Saddlebacks) as are all of the egg dishes. They offer brunch all week but for the most options head there on a weekend. You can’t book on the weekend though so get there early to avoid disappointment! Cafe Louvre is perfect if you want something a little more sophisticated to start your day. The decor is grand, the breakfast options are slightly more limited, but the food and atmosphere are great. If you want a slightly different breakfast experience then why not check out Radost? Yes, this is predominately a nightclub but come Saturday and Sunday mornings they serve an array of breakfast options and their blueberry French toast is great. They also have a number of veggie and vegan options on offer too.

Lunch and dinner both give you a lot more flexibility and the options in the city are endless. For the best burger in the city (and trust that we have tried many!) you have to go to Dish. Getting a table is hard so book a few days in advance or avoid peak times as the restaurant area is pretty small, as is the bar, but the burgers are worth the wait! The Koza Nostra with the Bistro fries is my favoruite. If you fancy a good italian whilst you’re away then L’Osteria is a must. The newly renovated location near Narodni Trida has a gorgeous outdoor area that is perfect for a late summer meal but if you’re heading out this season then don’t worry, the inside is just as beatiful and welcoming. I’d reccomend sharing a pizza as these things are literally bigger than your head and cannot fit on a single plate. That said they will let you take away your leftovers and even though it will result in the most epic of food-coma’s its hard not to eat the whole thing in one go.

Dashing between our favourite spots in the winter months would always end with us taking shelter in a Kozolovna for lunch. There are few dotted across the city and are the perfect spot to have some local Czech food in a warm and welcoming environment with Pilsner and Kozol beer on tap. Plates pilled high with dumplings, goulash and plenty of cranberry sauce, the ultimate in cosy winter food, just don’t plan too much for your afternoon as you’ll be in need of a nap after the meal!

If you fancy a spot of afternoon tea or just a sweet pick-me-up then If Cafe is one not to miss. THe delicate and beautiful pastries and cakes taste even better than they look and the options on offer mean you’ll constatly be going back for more. If you’re on the other side of the river then be sure to check out Cafe Savoy. They also do a wonderful breakfast and lunch menu but I’ve only gone there for an afternoon treat. Their lavender lemonade is beautiful as are all of their cakes.

Where to see

Whenever anyone says they are heading to Prague I always say to make sure they go to three places in particular; Charles Bridge, the Old Town Square and the Castle. Yes these are all excpetionally touristy places but if you’re only on a short trip then you want to make sure you hit all the sights and there is a good reason why these places are packed with tourists, they are all beautiful. Crossing Charles Bridge can be near-on impossible by time the mid-morning hits so try to time your walk earlier in the day or later in the evening. For that bridge shot be sure to get there as the sun rises, this is easier in the summer when the weather is a little more predictable but it was still gorgeous in the middle of an unexpected snow storm a few Christmases ago. Wandering around Old Town and getting lost in the side streets is always one of my favourite acrivities. There is so much to see, markets line the square at Easter and Christmas, and there are always so many little shops to hop into and explore. For a few pounds you can climb to the top of the tower, it doesn’t take long, is a ramp all the way until you get to the very top (where it gets very narrow so be warned if you are claustrophobic or struggle with tight spaces) and the view is brilliant. The Castle is gorgeous and is in use as the Parliament building so if you head up there you can see into where the Czech Parliament sit. I tend to recommend going up to the castle, down across the bridge, stopping off at the Kozolovna nearby Charles Bridge and then heading through to Old Town to explore the Clock Tower and surrounding streets. It’s a quite a walk so take a tram up to the castle to save your legs for the rest of the day!

Of course there are plenty of other spots worth visiting in the city too. The John Lennon Wall is worth checking out at least once, particularly as it constantly changes with new graffiti. Shooter Island is also great spot to have a wander and explore, especially if the weather is nice. You can also rent a pedalo and take it out on the Vlatava when the weather is good. I’d recommend doing this in the summer as oppose to blistery winter but it’s a lovely way to spend an afternoon. The National Museum has recently been renovated and until the end of 2018 you can enter and look around for free so if you’re going before the end of the year then be sure to make the most of that. It’s also worth taking a look around the Namesi Miru are too, the church is beautiful but it’s mainly a food district so best reserved for if you are heading up to Dish or If Cafe.

Shopping

I know not everyone wants to go shopping when they are away but Prague really does have some great shopping spots, including brands we can’t easily get in the UK, and I have picked up some of my favourite items there over the years. Take a trip down Wenceslas Square and it is lines with so many shops, it isn’t too dissimilar to London’s Oxford Street. Every time I go down here I am sure to check out their Reserved. Last year Reserved launched in the UK but with only one store in London it seems silly not to make the most of it when I’m away. The clothes are affordable and it kind of reminds me of H&M buy slightly more trend led. Lindex is another brand that is slowing coming to the UK but there is a large one in the Palladium shopping centre. Again, they are an affordable high street brand and you can get great basics and more trend-led pieces there. If you want to browse the shops for a while then Palladium is a great place to head to. Hop on the metro to Namesti Republicky and it will drop you in the base of the shopping centre. It’s also great for Tenezis (beautiful & comfortable underwear), Etam (remember when this was a thing at home? Now it’s full of gorgeous sleepwear and lingerie), C&A (another UK throwback) and of course DM, the place to go if you want to peruse local beauty offerings as well as a surprising amount of health foods. If you’re a fellow beauty lover then it’s also worth heading up to Sephora, there are several dotted around the city and although they don’t stock loads of brands that we can’t now get in the UK it is always fun to have a browse and see what is available.

Over the past few years we have perfected our routine for each time I visit Prague, I guess that’s the beauty of visiting somewhere several times, you get to know your favourite spots and the ones you can’t help but re-visit on every trip. These are all of my favourites that I’ve complied over the past 6 years and if you’re heading to Prague any time soon then hopefully these will help you if you’re looking for somewhere to grab a bite or want to know what you can’t afford to miss.